Since Kazakhstan gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, its standard of living has risen dramatically, and tourists have begun to take note of its cosmopolitan cities, striking natural landscape and steadily improving Western-standard comforts. Whether you’re looking for Silk Road exoticism, great steppes ecotourism or oil-wealth extravagance, Kazakhstan is slowly emerging from underneath its Soviet-era shroud to beckon the adventurous and the hedonistic alike. “The changes are gigantic,” says Beth Jones, U.S. ambassador to Kazakhstan from 1995 to 1998, when “there were no streetlights or curbs on the road and people were having a very difficult time making ends meet. It’s a completely different country now.”

That’s thanks mainly to oil. The largest landlocked nation in the world, Kazakhstan sits on more than 3 percent of the world’s oil reserves. It was the first nation in the Caspian region to privatize its energy industry and open up to Western businesses. Since independence, it has received more than $30 billion in direct foreign investment. “Oil money is a very important asset,” says Zhanbolat Ussenov, assistant to the Kazakhstan ambassador to the United States in Washington, D.C. “It’s a tool for building up the economy.”

And it shows. The tourist infrastructure is beginning to bloom. In the old capital city of Almaty, BMWs and Mercedeses cruise up and down the streets, with well-dressed customers patronizing bustling cafés, bars and nightclubs. Guest accommodations have drastically improved; among the new hotels that have opened in the past few years are the InterContinental, opposite the presidential palace, and Central Asia’s first five-star hotel, the Hyatt Regency Almaty, where the Regency Suite King—with two balconies, a separate dining room and a marble bath—goes for a whopping €5,800 per night. Indeed, unlike other newly developed countries, Kazakhstan is not cheap; with its eye on wealthy oil executives, it has become the most expensive destination in Central Asia. Ethnic restaurants feature sophisticated Russian, Swedish and Japanese cuisine. For pampering, the Luxor Wellness Club, located in an Egyptian-style building, offers hydrotherapy and ozone therapy at its beauty spa. The traditional Central Public Baths, called Arasan Banya, also draws tourists.

But perhaps Kazakhstan’s greatest attraction is its natural beauty—stunning landscapes of diverse and largely unspoiled terrain. Tourists can hike into the countryside, past yurts, the traditional tentlike structures made of wooden frames and covered with wool that Central Asian nomads use as homes, and glimpse their ancient rock drawings—known as petroglyphs—in the steppes. Skiers will find spectacular conditions and slopes much less crowded than those in Western Europe. Chimbulak, a 2,200-meter-high site in the mountains above Almaty, was once the training site for the Soviet Olympic ski team. It features modern lifts and excellent powder. In 1997 Warren Miller, the cult producer of extreme-skiing movies, shot scenes from “Snowriders 2” there. “The skiing is much better than the Alps,” says Jones. The Talgar Pass above Chimbulak peaks at 3,163 meters and offers spectacular views. Ice skaters can enjoy Medeo, the world’s largest outdoor rink, built by the Soviets right outside Almaty.

Tourists are catching on fast to Kazakhstan’s charms. During the last nine months of last year, the number of visitors to Kazakhstan increased by more than 31 percent. Last October, BMI launched direct flights from London to Almaty. In November “A Hedonist’s Guide to Almaty and Astana” was released, putting Kazakhstan on the map not just as a cultural experience and sportsman’s paradise but as a party destination. It recommends that travelers to Astana check out Che Guevara, a “pre-party café” that attracts a crowd of local architects, journalists and designers and hosts a Wednesday-night radio show. In Almaty, the Lime Bar has theme parties on weekend nights, as well as international guest DJs. Travel agencies are beginning to promote the country as well. Though it’s still difficult to find tours that focus solely on Kazakhstan—most are individually customized and very expensive—plenty of packages include Kazakhstan as part of a Central Asian jaunt that might visit neighboring countries like Uzbekistan or follow the Silk Road route.

The country’s allure will only grow. Plans are already underway to develop the Caspian Sea coastline. The Kenderli Sun and Beach Holiday Resort project, expected to cost $2.5 billion, will include parks, golf courses, theme parks, restaurants and entertainment facilities. To draw foreign tourists, business travelers and beachgoers, the government plans to build a $320 million international airport along the coast, as well as a 170km railway linking Akatu City, a small city on the Caspian, to Kenderli Beach. It’s likely the railway will continue on to neighboring Turkmenistan. It’s estimated that the project will draw 300,000 tourists annually, and it’s scheduled to be completed by 2015. By then the country’s reputation will stand on much more than “Borat.”